nordpaul.de - Svalbard around Pyramiden 2010

Svalbard 2010 - the second visit

In 2008, I wrote on my website: “The archipelago Svalbard: former home of polar explorers, adventurers and discoverers. Far away from Central Europe. It was merely a dream. In my youth, I only read about Spitsbergen. In August 2008 I was there for twelve days and twelve bright nights.” Now I can add with even greater joy: In August 2010 I was back in Svalbard - this time for 17 days, with nearly precipitation-free weather.

On arrival in Longyearbyen, I was greeted by bright sunshine. My tent was quickly set up at the campsite near the airport. Then I walked the usual hour into town to COOP Svalbard to buy food and supplies for the coming days in the wilderness: pasta, cracker bread, and jam in a tube (22 NOK, exchange rate in 2010: 8 NOK = 1 EUR). I also bought a large propane gas cartridge (80 NOK) for my Primus stove.

Longyearbyen – Gruve 2b

During my town visit, I treated myself to delicious pastries: Skolebrød (16 NOK) and baked bread with cheese (16 NOK). The next day, I visited the former coal mine Gruve 2b on the western hillside of Longyeardal. The sun was shining, and under the blue Arctic sky, it was a mild 6°C - yet the old mine entrance was completely frozen.

Around Longyearbyen

In the next few days, I met the other three participants of the international expedition. Some logistics still needed organizing - including borrowing two rifles to prepare for possible polar bear encounters.

On short hikes, we explored the surroundings of Longyearbyen: we found fossils at the glacier edge and saw tracks of an arctic fox. In the evening, our team dined out - I had pizza (140 NOK) and pear cider (40 NOK) as my last refreshment before the big adventure. The midnight sun and constant light lifted our spirits - and 10°C in August felt surprisingly mild.

Pyramiden: The Ghost Town

Early the next day, we boarded the ship MS Polargirl (750 NOK one way) to the abandoned Soviet ghost town of Pyramiden. Once home to over 1,000 residents - like the still inhabited Russian town of Barentsburg - Pyramiden was abandoned in 2000. Today, a small group of workers from Barentsburg maintains the buildings to prevent flood damage.

I knew Pyramiden from my 2008 trip. This time, we climbed the mountain that gave the town its name. A coal-truck railway led us up the mountainside to the mine entrance at 400 m - now partially blocked by landslides. From there, we continued up the steep, loose scree slope. The summit is 935 m high - we reached 850 m before steep cliffs and unstable terrain forced us to turn back. The view was breathtaking - distant peaks stretched endlessly under the Arctic sky.

Glacier Trekking

Pyramiden felt like true wilderness - only a daily tourist ship visited for two hours. But the next day, our real northern ice campaign began. We walked two days across flat glaciers - Bertilbreen, Svenbreen, Hoelbreen, Hørbyebreen - climbing passes over 600 m and descending steep slopes into valleys. In 30 hours, we covered 16 km. We even cooked and slept on the ice, not far from the bergschrund.

Base Camp in Hørbyedal

We set up our northernmost camp on a flat moraine in Hørbyedal for three days - our base for day tours. For safety, we set up a polar bear warning system: a fishing line strung around the tents, connected to pots. If a bear passed through, the pots would crash loudly - waking us to scare it away. Fortunately, it never happened.

Day hike Mittag-Lefflerbreen

The next day, we traveled farther north than I had ever been. We crossed the glacier tongue of Ragnarbreen, then climbed to the wide glacial area of Mittag-Lefflerbreen. To the west, we saw the summit Sfinksen (905 m). Ahead lay McWhaebreen - we soon crossed its ice.

From Tarantellenryggen, we looked north to Austfjord - the southern end of Wijdefjord. Following this fjord north leads, after hundreds of kilometers, straight to the North Pole. This was the northernmost point I’ve ever reached - and the view was spectacular.

Later, we turned south and walked along the rock formation Tarantellen. After 17 km (8 on glaciers), we returned to camp. The next day, strong winds tested our tents - my Helsport tent held up perfectly. Slowly, we turned back toward civilization. To reach Pyramiden, we crossed an ice-cold glacial river barefoot - without incident.

the Austfjord is the southern end of the Wijdefjord

Pyramiden and power plant

Back in Pyramiden, we explored the village and surroundings more deeply. The weather remained impressively clear.

The old coal power plant stood near the harbor. We explored this (future?) industrial museum - I even climbed halfway up one of the two chimneys. Suddenly, the ship scheduled to take us back to Longyearbyen arrived at the quay. One last goodbye to Pyramiden.

Returning by ship

For our return, we boarded the MS Langøysund - not as comfortable as the superior MS Polargirl. First, we stopped briefly at the mighty edge of Nordenskiöldbreen glacier. As we sailed down Bünsowland toward the wide Isfjord, the sea grew rougher - the boat heaved violently. I’ve never experienced such rough seas and lived to tell the tale.

Adventfjord, coal cable car and snow summits

After a delicious Nordic buffet at the Radisson Blu-Hotel (325 NOK), we returned to the campsite. The next morning, the first snow of approaching autumn surprised us - blanketing our tents. Time to say: bye bye Svalbard!