Edinburgh and the Highlands
In summer 2004, I spent ten days in Scotland - starting in the capital Edinburgh, then exploring the Highlands. We experienced typical British weather only during the first days.
At the end of June 2004, we flew from Germany to Edinburgh. The welcome was classically British: rain around the clock and strong winds. But clear skies followed soon after.
Edinburgh’s city center is defined by its grey stone buildings - which look even greyer in the rain. Yet, they give the streets a unique charm. Colorful wooden shop and pub entrances on the ground floor add warmth and character. Pubs here are often beautifully decorated and very cozy - and there are many of them.
From Edinburgh to Loch Ness
We drove a hired car for eight days, circling Scotland counterclockwise. Our first highlight near the road was the Firth of Forth Bridges - the modern road bridge and the old red railway bridge.
Along the way, we kept encountering old stone structures: bridges, castles, towers, and ruins. In the early miles, these were nestled among forests and hills, with many lakes and rivers nearby.
To the Northern Coast
Scottish Youth Hostels offer comfortable stays with good kitchens for cooking your own meals. You can also book and pay for your next hostel in advance.
Due to Scotland’s northern latitude, nights in June never get fully dark. As we headed north, trees and woods gave way to wide meadows, mountains, and countless sheep.
Reaching the Atlantic coast, we enjoyed a stunning view from steep cliffs down to a white-sand beach, framed by red rock walls and turquoise water.
The small Youth Hostel at Achmelvich Beach is a great place to stay.
Along the West Coast Southward
Our return south followed single-track roads along the Atlantic coast. The westerly wind created towering clouds over the land. We also saw trees in valleys or on small wooded islands, like Loch Maree. The Falls of Measach carved their own deep gorge.
Isle of Skye
We spent two nights on the Isle of Skye - one in Glenbrittle, at the foot of the hiking paradise Cuillin Hills. Skye is known for its often foggy weather - and we experienced it firsthand. Most sights lie in the northeast: the mountain plateau Quiraing, the steep Kilt Rock cliffs, and the “Old Man of Storr” rock formation - which was hidden behind clouds during our visit.
After leaving Skye by ferry (about 10 EUR in 2004; the bridge also cost 10 EUR), we viewed Eilean Donan Castle from across the water. The castle sits on a small rocky island, connected by an old stone bridge.
Castles Northwest of Glasgow
On our way to Glasgow, we stopped in Glencoe Valley and visited more castles. At Loch Lomond, we stayed again in a beautiful old castle (Youth Hostel).
We visited Glasgow only briefly - its architecture is less striking than Edinburgh’s. But I recommend St. Mungo Cathedral. For our final night, we returned to Edinburgh.
This road trip gave me a great overview of Scotland - though sometimes the vast landscapes rushed past too quickly.
Link Tips
- Scottish Castles interactive map of castles
- Regions in Scotland planning your trip
- Youth Hostels in Scotland
- Highlands at Wikipedia
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... more Atlantic islands:
