Stadlandet and Kjerag 2009

Where do I go?
Where do I go?
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Norway

In August to Vestkapp

In August 2009, I spent over two weeks traveling through western Norway. Among the many impressive landscapes, two stood out: the remote Stadlandet peninsula with Vestkapp - Norway’s westernmost point on the Atlantic - and the famous Kjeragbolten stone wedged between cliffs near Lysefjord.

We drove to Hirtshals, Denmark, then took a fast ferry to Kristiansand in southern Norway. After more ferry rides - including across the Hardanger Fjord - we reached Stadlandet and Vestkapp after two nights.

Hardangerfjord
Hardangerfjord
Sværafjord at 0.43 clock
Sværafjord at 0.43 clock
goats caravan
goats caravan
at the Vestkapp
at the Vestkapp

Stadlandet, Honningsvåg and Ervik

Stadlandet is part of Selje municipality, the northernmost in Sogn og Fjordane. It’s sparsely populated, with forests only in valleys. Some 500-meter-high mountains offer great views - and so do the sheep grazing on green slopes. We stayed in Honningsvåg.

The Atlantic is ever-present - often rough, but sometimes calm. Stadlandet is Norway’s closest point to Iceland. In Ervik’s cemetery, older names still follow Icelandic patterns (e.g., Paulsdatter = Paul’s daughter). Surnames often reflect former place names (Aarvig = Ervik).

small village Honningsvåg
small village Honningsvåg
at the western end of Norway
at the western end of Norway
Atlantic sheep
Atlantic sheep
shudder before sunset
shudder before sunset
quiet ocean
quiet ocean
old cemetery Ervik
old cemetery Ervik
rocks near Ervik
rocks near Ervik

Sognefjord and Glacier Hiking

Though I first visited Norway in 1995, my 2009 trip included my first glacier hike - on Bøydalsbreen. The weather was mild, and walking on a vast ice tongue felt surreal.

We spent days near Sognefjord, Norway’s largest fjord. On our return south, Låtefoss thundered down into a valley.

glacier hike Bøydalsbreen
glacier hike Bøydalsbreen
sun shudder in Bødal
sun shudder in Bødal
sheep march on the road
sheep march on the road
Sognefjord near Rutledal
Sognefjord near Rutledal
rushing Låtefoss
rushing Låtefoss

Kjerag and Kjeragbolten

The highlight of the trip was hiking to Kjerag, a 1000+ meter high mountain range beside Lysefjord. The rock is smooth, polished, and bare - no plants grow here.

The 12-km round-trip hike took us six hours. Most of the path is smooth, polished rock. Iron chains assist on steep sections. Rain or fog can make the trail dangerous. I tested Kjeragbolten’s stability - jumping on it - and it held firm.

Between two cliffs sits Kjeragbolten - a 5 m³ egg-shaped stone. Below it, Kjeragfossen waterfall drops 715 meters. Lysefjord lies nearly 1000 meters diagonally below. Vertical cliffs drop up to 900 meters. An extreme place.

Map Kjerag
Map Kjerag
smooth rock path
smooth rock path
at Kjerag
at Kjerag
impacted stone Kjeragbolten
impacted stone Kjeragbolten
Kjeragbolten from above
Kjeragbolten from above
Kjeragbolten from the rear
Kjeragbolten from the rear
balcony at Kjeragbolten
balcony at Kjeragbolten
1000 meter downwards
1000 meter downwards
narrow deep Lysefjord
narrow deep Lysefjord