nordpaul.de - Iceland Volcanism and Water 2010

Iceland in May

In mid-May 2010, I returned to Iceland - eight years after my first and so far only trip. Even the eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano couldn’t stop me. My flight took advantage of a gap in the ash cloud. After a three-and-a-half-hour flight, I arrived in Keflavík under slightly cloudy skies and later reached Reykjavík by bus. I felt right at home - I lived here for four months in 2002.

Over three and a half weeks, I spent a few days in the southwest, two weeks in the remote Westfjords, and one week around Lake Mývatn.

Reykjavík and Golden Circle

On a half-day tour of the Golden Circle, we passed the volcanic crater Kerið en route to Gullfoss, which plunges 11 meters and then 21 meters into a ravine. In Haukadalur, we also saw the thermal field, including the blue thermal spring Blesi.

Geyser Strokkur

The most famous natural wonder in Haukadalur is the Geyser (which gave all other geysers in the world their name). The Great Geyser is active only irregularly, but neighboring Strokkur erupts every few minutes with a 20–30 meter fountain - a perfect interplay of volcanism and water. Here’s the development of an eruption:

Volcanic activity Eyjafjallajökull

In the evening, I took a tour to Eyjafjallajökull. A brief geography note: Eyjafjallajökull (“island mountains glacier”) is a glacier near Iceland’s south coast, with a volcanic massif of the same name beneath it. From mid-April to Pentecost 2010, it emitted ash and water vapor up to 9,000 meters high. The glacier’s highest point is 1,666 meters.

It was exciting - clouds might have hidden the glacier and ash. But the weather cleared, and a massive gray ash cloud drifted silently south toward the Atlantic. Though colorful from outside, inside it was pitch black - like deepest night, without stars. A frightening sight. Back in daylight, the sun’s last rays turned the ash bright orange.

Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) on the horizon

On the way back, our minibus stopped at the 66-meter-deep Seljalandsfoss at sunset. Formerly the Atlantic coastline, I walked all the way around the waterfall.

Map of Iceland

Waterfall Dynjandi in the Westfjords

After the first days in Reykjavík, on the Golden Circle and at Eyjafjallajökull, I headed to the Westfjords - a new, unknown area for me. We passed the Grábrók crater, saw the wide fjord Breiðafjörður repeatedly, and finally reached Dynjandi after crossing snowfields. Five smaller waterfalls lead to the foot of the 100-meter-high, broadly fanned Dynjandi (also called Fjallfoss) - a special perspective from below.

snow field in the mountainous Westfjords

In the Westfjords

The Westfjords (Vestfirðir) are a rugged, mountainous peninsula in northwest Iceland. The region is relatively isolated (many gravel roads close in winter) and sparsely populated - just 0.8 inhabitants per km². For comparison: Great Britain has 255 inhabitants per km², Mongolia - the world’s least densely populated country - has 1.9. Only recently has a continuous paved road connected Reykjavík to Ísafjörður. The ride from Reykjavík to Dýrafjörður took about ten hours with stops.

After two nights in Núpur in Dýrafjörður, the journey continued southeast to Hótel Laugarhóll.

Workcamp at Hótel Laugarhóll, next to a hot spring

For two weeks, I was part of an international volunteer workcamp at Hótel Laugarhóll in Bjarnarfjörður (Bear Fjord). We remodeled outdoor areas - especially the hot spring and warm brook. Lodging and meals were free; we cooked for ourselves. Before the camp, you pay travel costs and an admin fee. The camp won’t make you richer in money - but in experience, language practice, broadened horizons, and insight into Icelandic daily life.

At Hótel Laugarhóll, you’ll find Gvendarlaug, a hot spring used since Saga times. Today, the water’s too hot - better to use the rugged thermal spring or the natural warm swimming pool. I relaxed in the warm water every evening for two or three hours - sometimes until midnight, as it never got dark in May. Like paradise!

Leisure Time at the Bjarnarfjörður

During free time or weekends, we hiked through the harsh environment. A river carves deeper into a crevice. Further north on the east coast, we visited Krossnes - the next warm pool, right on the Atlantic coast, in the middle of nowhere.

Farewell to the Westfjords

What makes a physically demanding work camp fun? Collecting driftwood under the open sky on the Atlantic coast - driftwood that entered the Arctic Ocean in Siberia decades ago. Iceland has almost no forests, yet many wooden houses.

After wonderful time with volunteers and locals, I said goodbye to head to the airport in Ísafjörður. Due to the many branches of Ísafjarðardjúp, it took 100 minutes by car for just 25 km as the crow flies. The night before my flight, I slept in Súðavík, walked up Sauradalur to the snow line, and recommend visiting the Arctic Fox Center (Melrakkasetur) in Súðavík.

Further to the North-East of Iceland

From Ísafjörður (said to be one of the world’s most dangerous airports due to its mountainous location), I flew via Reykjavík to Akureyri in the north. Then I drove to the 12-meter-deep, 30-meter-wide Goðafoss (Gods Waterfall), and later to Lake Mývatn - on average just over 2 meters deep.

Mývatn Region with Lava City Dimmuborgir

Lake Mývatn is known for its diverse lava formations, like the tufa formations of Dimmuborgir - formed 2,000 years ago when lava flowed over a swamp, freezing in parts while boiling lava flowed away.

Volcanic activity around the lake continues. The last eruptions of the Krafla volcanic system were until 1984 - not the last. On Námafjall, I felt the earth’s warmth under my feet.

Bathing Grotto Grjótagjá

Volcanism means hot water. The former swimming grotto Grjótagjá is impressive proof. Due to rising temperatures (50°C), guidebooks say it’s no longer suitable for bathing. In summer 2010, the southern part was good for a short bath - even in the evening, when it drizzled. The crevice visible along the cave separates the Eurasian and American continental plates - swimming between continents.

Krafla Volcanic System

The crater Víti formed during an eruption in 1724. Today, a maar inside has turquoise water from silica algae. In 1984, the Krafla volcanic system was again very active - new black lava contrasts the usually yellow surface of Leirhnjúkur. Lava fields were still hot and steaming in 2010.

The gray Hverfjall explosion crater (or Hverfell) on Mývatn’s eastern shore is a large tuff ring - formed 2,500 years ago when magma met groundwater, causing a massive steam explosion. Hverfjall belongs to the Krafla system.

black Lava of the crater Hófur from 1984

tuff ring from magma water vapor explosion

Lava Ice Cave Lofthellir

Before my trip, I read about a lava ice cave called Lofthellir - discovered in 1984 by aircraft in the large Laxádalslava. I wanted to visit this relatively unknown cave. On a cloudy day, I borrowed a bike and rode on lava tracks farther from civilization - hoping it wouldn’t rain, the rickety rental bike would survive, and I’d find the cave in the vast lava field. I had no detailed map, only approximate location descriptions.

After two hours of cycling, the trail ended. Now the real adventure began. I walked and searched the mile-wide area for the cave entrance - everything looked the same. After one hour, I wanted to turn back to my bike. But then I stumbled randomly upon a hole in the earth. Thank you! I climbed down a ladder to the ground floor, then crawled through a very narrow gap into total darkness and silence. I only heard my blood pumping through my ears. It was incredibly, almost unbelievably quiet down there. After 45 minutes, I was back outside. What an experience!

Northeast of the Mývatn

One week at Lake Mývatn wasn’t enough. I headed northeast into the mighty valley Jökulsárgljúfur, where the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum plunges down Dettifoss. (More details later.) I rode on seemingly endless gravel roads farther north, then back south on the other side of the valley. In Vesturdalen, I saw the Hljóðaklettar (Echo Rocks) - like Karl and Kerling or Kirkjan - many hexagonal basalt rocks.

Other options in the region: I climbed the 771-meter-high Hlíðarfjall in the morning, wrote something in the summit book, and enjoyed the view over the lake - about 500 meters below - and all surrounding craters and lava fields. In the evening, I went to the Mývatn Nature Baths - a small Blue Lagoon.

Three Waterfalls: Selfoss, Dettifoss and Hafragilsfoss

The river Jökulsá á Fjöllum flows through the surreal basalt valley Jökulsárgljúfur in three consecutive stages toward the Arctic Ocean. First, water falls 10 meters at Selfoss - the edge moves upstream. After one kilometer, you see and feel Europe’s most water-rich (highest energy) waterfall: Dettifoss, 100 meters wide, 45 meters deep, with an average flow of 193 m³/s. Much noise and spray guaranteed. After two kilometers, water flows into the third waterfall, Hafragilsfoss, 27 meters deep.

High Temperature Area Hverarönd

East of Mývatn, the high-temperature area Hverarönd lies at the base of the active volcano Námafjall. About 200°C at 1,000 meters depth activates steam and mud pools at the surface. Solfataras shoot sulfurous steam, fumaroles mostly water steam, while mud pots - connected to groundwater - bubble constantly. A variety of natural phenomena.

Return via the Aldeyjarfoss

After three and a half weeks, the journey was almost over. I passed Goðafoss again and decided on a half-day excursion into the highlands to the northern end of the Sprengisandur track. There, I marveled at - in my opinion - Iceland’s most beautiful waterfall: Aldeyjarfoss. The river Skjálfandafljót flows over black basalt columns, white against a blue sky, into a 20-meter-deep plunge. I lay in front of the fall and felt the deep bass of hydropower. Later, I spent the evening before my night flight a few hours in the Blue Lagoon - enjoying thermal heat one last time.

Iceland 2010 was a perfect trip. Besides the people, landscapes, and natural phenomena, the weather was unique. According to the weather office, May 2010 was relatively warm and dry - even June was exceptionally warm and dry. Many new weather records were set. Around Mývatn, there was almost no rainfall in June, while sunshine hours were higher than ever before. Very lucky!