Finland and Baltic States 2001

Journey to Helsinki / Finland

In August 2001 we spent four weeks travelling through the south of Finland and the Baltic States, staying in youth hostels along the way. For transport we used ferries, trains and buses, but also a taxi, a cable car and a canoe. During this tour we had to adjust our watches several times. The time data in this report were valid in summer 2001.

In Rostock, Germany, we took the fast ferry FinnJet of the Silja Line to Helsinki. For about 50 EUR (2001) we were on board for 26 hours.

In Finland's capital Helsinki you find two well-booked youth hostels in the city centre. I cannot recommend the somewhat out-of-the-way "Stadium Hostel" due to its lack of cleanliness. Helsinki has a rather uninteresting architecture overall. Exceptions are the modern Temppeliaukio Church, which is carved out of rock, and the old fortress Suomenlinna in the harbour. But Finland is in any case much more a country of lakes and forests.

In the Lake Area around Savonlinna

After four days in Helsinki we continued our journey by train into the eastern lake area to Savonlinna. There we discovered the typical Finland with its blue lakes and green forests. The castle Olavinlinna is in the city centre of Savonlinna (entrance only with a guide, reduced 4 EUR, 2001). The castle was alternately in the possession of Sweden and Russia. A paddling tour by canoe is also highly recommended in Savonlinna - we paid only 12 EUR for a whole day.

Turku

Turku was our last stop in Finland. This city is situated in the southwest of Finland, surrounded by many skerries. As everywhere in Finland, we also ate in Turku a large pizza with salad and a glass of milk for only 5 EUR.

On the way back to Helsinki something unusual happened on the train: on a local train it seems to be obligatory to have a seat reservation. We bought one on the train - but there were no seat numbers on it!

The Baltics

After arriving in Helsinki we took a ferry to Tallinn. There are several crossings by ship or fast ferry to Estonia each day.

» Estonian time: CEST.

Unique Tallinn in Estonia

In the heart of the old town of the Estonian capital Tallinn we stayed at the "Hostel Vana Tom" for only 13 EUR (2001). The old town of Tallinn is divided into two parts: the upper and the lower town. Both parts are lined with colourful old houses: some are renovated, some no longer shine in fresh colours, and others are rather run-down. Around both parts you find a complete city wall with many watch towers - you must visit some of them! In my opinion the old town of Tallinn is one of the most beautiful in Europe and is alone worth a journey.

Island Hiiumaa in the Baltic Sea

For only 13 EUR (student, 2001) I bought a return ticket for a bus and ferry trip to Kärdla on the island Hiiumaa. Hiiumaa is one of the two large western islands in the Baltic Sea. At night you can see far more stars in the sky than anywhere over the illuminated cities of Central Europe.

Riga in Latvia

After one more night in Tallinn we made our way to Riga by train and bus in a rather adventurous fashion. There are also direct buses between the two capitals. Here, however, is the route we took in 2001:

7:32 - 12:05 Express train to the border at Valga (Estonia) / 6 EUR

then taxi to the border crossing near the town / 2 EUR

and on foot to the bus station in Valka (Latvia)

15:30 - 16:50 Bus to Valmiera / 1.30 EUR

17:50 - 19:40 Express bus to Riga / 2.20 EUR

» Latvian time: CEST +1 hour.

The Latvian capital Riga and most of its buildings are very reminiscent of my home city Berlin. The old town has been completely renovated. We only saw a short section of the city wall. From Riga we took local trains to Jurmala and its endless Baltic Sea beaches (1.20 EUR, 2001) and into the Gaujas Nacionalais Parks near Sigulda (2.60 EUR, 2001).

City of Churches: Vilnius

Two trains a day run from Riga to Vilnius and beyond (journey time about six hours).

» Lithuanian time: CEST.

The Lithuanian capital Vilnius is a charming small city with many churches. The city centre consists of well-restored buildings interspersed time and again with churches. In contrast to Riga, the city has a very polished appearance. As in all formerly socialist cities, there are also concrete slab housing estates on the outskirts of Vilnius. The KGB Genocide Museum in the city centre shows in a deeply shocking way how the various regimes lived and acted in Lithuania.

Return Journey and Conclusion

The return journey to Berlin began in Vilnius on a comfortable Polish night train in the evening. The next morning we had only ten minutes in Warsaw to change trains to Berlin. However, this was still enough time to take a picture of the Culture Palace Warsaw.

In all three Baltic capitals we saw and used many trolley buses; in Tallinn and Riga we also used trams. The prices for a single ticket were very low in 2001: Vilnius 0.28 EUR / Riga 0.31 EUR / Tallinn 0.32 EUR. Bakeries are even cheaper than transport tickets in the Baltic states: for about 0.20 EUR we got delicious, hand-made cakes - not industrial ones.

The three Baltic capitals Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius each have their own character. One thing they all have in common: they are changing.

Link Tips

• Helsinki attractions, transportation and city map
• Suomenlinna the large fortress Suomenlinna in the port of Helsinki
• Tallinn digital with 360° views
• Viru Backpackers the first (and best?) hostel in Tallinn
• Baltic states at Wikipedia
• ... more Tallinn and Estonia: